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It's all in the details
Once upon a time, a restaurant called Sureyya stood at the entrance to Bebek, one of the most beautiful neighbourhoods on the Bosphorus. The original Sureyya restaurant was in Ankara and was run by a White Russian called Sureyya Bey. Sureyya was popular with diplomats, deputy MPs and intellectuals who begged him to open a branch in Istanbul. He did, and Süreyya soon became an Istanbul institution. Today, Sureyya has been replaced by Mel's, but the menu at the new restaurant includes Chicken Kievski by way of a tribute to Süreyya Bey. Mel's opened 5-6 months ago and is run by Dogan Cakıt, known as Dodo. Every detail at the restaurant has been carefully thought through. In the winter, customers who wished to sit by Mel's fireplace had to reserve the spot weeks in advance. The yellow vodka served at the entrance is also a nod to Sureyya Bey and comes in many flavours including pomegranate, watermelon, cherry and strawberry. Mel's prepares tailor-made table settings for customers with special needs or preferences. We began our meal with steak tartare served with quail eggs. Next, we had the warm lobster salad with caviar and citrus fruits. Ingredients like caviar may jack up the prices at Mel's, but, when you consider the location, menu and service of the restaurant, Mel's prices are not as high as one might imagine.
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| Mango boat with fruit salad... |
Kievski nostalgia...
The menu at Mel's has a definite structure and logic to it, with each dish complementing and completing the one before it. Our meal began with delicious breads and sauces followed by chicken Kievski. The chicken is stuffed with basil and butter, which oozes out onto a layer of bread below when sliced open. The only fried dish on the menu is French fries. From among the seafood dishes on offer, we tried the baked grouper served with 'maksim' potatoes, pureed peas and vanilla lobster sauce. Every dish is carefully prepared and served, and the spices and sauces are in perfect harmony.For dessert, we had the mango boat. The mango is baked and filled with fruit salad, topped with mango sorbet and sails made out of crunchy slices of baked pineapple, all of which is placed on a layer of pineapple. Still hungry, we decided to try the strawberries cooked in red wine and served with olive confit and vanilla ice cream. Mel's has an extensive selection of wines, champagnes and drinks. Make sure to try the fruit vodkas. Mel's summer decoration and menu opens on June 10. Reservations are essential. A dinner at Mel's will set you back 150 YTL per person...
Adress: Cevdetpasa Cad. Vezirkosku Sok.
No: 2, Bebek. Tel: +90 0212-257 70 40.
