|
| The garden of the Bellapais Abbey overlooks Girne. |
The Mediterranean island of Cyprus has a long history of foreign domination and conflict. Only ten years ago, much of Girne lacked running water and electricity; today, it is one of the most popular destinations in the Med. Emerging from its isolation, Northern Cyprus now attracts more foreign tourists than Turkish visitors. Two of the most beautiful spots on this pristine island are the villages of Karmi and Bellapais.
Bohemian refuge
During the British occupation that lasted from 1878-1960, many British aristocrats, intellectuals and artists set up homes on the idyllic island. In the early 20th century, the British were joined by other Europeans and even Americans, including such stellar figures as Rimbaud, Peter Sellers and David Bowie. After the war in 1974, the new Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus decided to move all the Cypriot foreigners into one area, and gave them Karmi, a former Greek village, on the condition that they restore the old houses. The result is a Mediterranean utopia with 150 houses. Known today as Karaman, the town is 8 kilometres from Girne. Its German, French, Italian, Dutch, Swiss, American and Canadian residents maintain the bohemian outlook and lifestyle of their ancestors. Karmi's small church dates back to 1860 and the village's only shop is run by an Englishman. Karmi also boasts a pub and a cafe. However, prices are pegged to the English pound, so Karmi is much more expensive than the rest of Northern Cyprus. 80-year-old Nadia Brunton, the mayor of the town, says that a number of houses are available for rent during the tourist season.
|
| A walk in the village. |
The Tree of Idleness
Our second stop in Northern Cyprus is the village of Bellapais, known today as Beylerbeyi. In 1953, Lawrence Durrell, the author of 'The Alexandria Quartet', moved here with his daughter Sappho in search of a new life. He named the ancient mulberry tree that stands over the village coffeehouse the Tree of Idleness, an apt appellation. Sadly, ethnic strife forced him to leave only three years later, a period he chronicled in his book 'Bitter Lemons of Cyprus'. Bellapais is also known for its stunning abbey, a gothic masterpiece that was built in the 13th century during a period when the island was run by the French Lusignan noble family. The abbey hosts the annual Bellapais International Festival of Classical Music. This year, the festival begins in the last week of May and ends on June 24.No trip to Northern Cyprus is complete without a taste of its cuisine. The island boasts many restaurants. Some of the best local specialities are peach kebap, pan-fried halloumi cheese and walnut paste. Enjoy a delicious meal on a warm summer evening overlooking the beauty of Northern Cyprus.
Girne Guide
Climate
Northern Cyprus has a typical Mediterranean climate, enjoying around 300 days of sun. The best time to visit is May-June and September-October to avoid the summer heat.
Visas
Turkish citizens can travel with only their ID card. See www.thegate.com.tr
Dailing code
From Turkey, simply dial the 0392 area code.
Currency
The official currency is the TL and YTL. The British pound is also used widely.
How to get there
THY, Cyprus Turkish Airlines and Atlas Jet fly daily to Northern Cyprus. Enjoy domestic flight fares. There is a daily sea bus service from Taşucu to Girne. Tel: +324 741 23 23. See www.thegate.com.tr or www.gatetoturkey.com for contact details.
Where to stay
Merit Crystal Cove Hotel: A 5-star luxury hotel in one of the most beautiful bays in the Med, with a private beach and a pool. Sea and mountain views. Alsancak, Girne. Tel: +392-821 23 45. www.merithotels.com The Colony Hotel: A boutique, 3-story, colonial style hotel. Private butler service and excellent five o'clock tea. Ecevit Cad, Girne. Tel: +392 815 15 18. www.thecolonycyprus.com Bellapais Garden Hotel: Bungalows and self service apartments set in a tropical garden below the abbey. A great place to sample Cypriot cuisine. Beylerbeyi, Girne. Tel: +392 815 60 66 www.bellapaisgardens.com Hideway Club: A 3-star holiday village overlooking Girne. Karaman yolu, Girne. Tel: +392-822 26 20. www.hideawayclub.com Nostalgia & Ferman Hotel: Two boutique hotels set in converted old Greek houses behind the historic port of Girne. Serves delicious Indian fare. Cafer Pasa Sok, Girne. Tel: +392 815 30 79.
Where to eat
Kybele: Enjoy stuffed calamari, peach and ''kup'' kebap, garlic tahini and almond paste in this romantic restaurant in Bellapais. Beylerbeyi, Girne. Tel: +392 815 75 31. Veranda: Set in a Greek house in a garden perched on rocks. Mediterranean fare. Reservations are essential. Karaoglanoglu sahili, Girne. Tel: +392 822 20 53. Niazi's: A 50-year-old institution. Enjoy Cypriot-style fish, seafood and kebap followed by a trip to the dessert buffet. Dome Sok, Girne Tel: +392 815 21 60.
| Helpful hints... |
|
* Built by the Venetians in the 15th century, Girne Castle is home to six separate museums. One of the most fascinating items on display is a 2300-year-old ship found in the waters off Girne. * Girne has been an important commercial port throughout history and is a heaven for divers. Its waters are filled with colourful sea life, aircrafts wrecks and fields of amphoras just waiting to be discovered. * Cyprus does not raise grapes suitable for wine production, but the local rakı, cognac and ''zivania'' are worth trying. * While in Cyprus, try the unique ''cikla tursusu'': ''cikla'', a local small bird, is pickled and served as a starter. * Girne is set on the slopes of the Beşparmak Mountains, whose peaks are home to three castles. The largest, the 7th-century St. Hilarion, boasts a stunning view of the Mediterranean. |
|
|
