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| Enjoying a chat on the beach at Qurm. |
After a 45-minute flight over a barren desert, our plane lands in the equally deserted Seeb International Airport. It seems that Oman is not used to receiving visitors.
Arabia with a touch of India
Even in March, Muscat is a ghost town by day, as only mad dogs and tourists would dare brave the blazing sun. In the evening, Omanis emerge from their air-conditioned homes to promenade along the city's shoreline Corniche or chat in a coffeehouse. For hundreds of years, the seafaring Omanis travelled as far as India and Africa, a fact reflected in their unusual take on traditional Arab dress: men wear a ''dishdash'', a sash around their waist to hold a dagger called a ''khanjar'' (Oman's national emblem) and an Indian-looking scull cap called a 'kummar' or a turban called a ''muzzar'' on their heads; Omani women wear both the traditional black robes as well as long, colourful dresses that bear a resemblance to Indian saris.
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| Nizwa fortress. |
The Sultanate of Oman
The liveliest, most interesting area in Muscat is the shoreline region of Mutrah. Two fortresses built by the Portuguese during their 150-year occupation of Oman that began in 1507 stand above Mutrah. Mutrah Harbour is filled with traditional wooden boats that serve as reminder of Oman's ocean-going prowess: in the 19th century, the Sultanate of Oman stretched as far as Mombasa and Zanzibar. No visit to Mutrah is complete without a tour of its lively, fragrant bazaar known as the 'Souq' and the bustling fish market to the east of the harbour.One of the most striking sights in arid Oman is its large green parks, watered with desalinated seawater. This expensive endeavour is an example of the impressive public works spearheaded by Sultan Qaboos, who took the throne in 1970. It seems hard to believe, but, back then, Oman had only two schools and two hospitals. Sultan Qaboos began a renaissance, supporting education, health, tourism and art in the country.
Lawrence of Arabia
With its luxury hotels, shopping centres and beach that goes on for miles, the region of Al Qurm is the heart of Muscat's tourist industry. Here, you can try all kinds of water sports by day and picnic on the beach at night. However, if you want to see a more authentic part of Oman, hire a car and drive through desert scenes reminiscent of 'Lawrence of Arabia' to the town of Nizwa. In the 17th century, Sultan Saif Al-Yaruba built a stunning fortress in this quiet town that has remained unchanged for hundreds of years.With its fascinating mix of cultures and rich history, Oman is a hidden treasure as yet undiscovered by package tourism. This is the ideal time to enjoy the unique charm and hospitality of this quiet paradise.
Muscat Guide
Climate
The best time to visit Muscat is between the months of November and March. The average temperature during this season varies between 25 and 28 degrees. It can reach around 40 degrees from June to September-which is also the monsoon season.
Visas
You can purchase a visa for Muscat at Seeb Airport, but contact the Omani authorities to confirm this before travelling.
Dialling codes
Oman: 968. Muscat: 24.
Currency
Rial. 1 USD = 0.39 Rial.
How to get there
There are no direct flights from Istanbul to Muscat. Emirates and Qatar Airways have connecting flights to Muscat. See The Gate for contact information.
Where to stay
Chedi Hotel: An elegant, luxury hotel decorated in Oriental minimalist style. Al-ghubra North. Tel: 505035. www.ghmhotels.com Sheraton Oman: Five-star comfort. Bayt Al-Falaj Street, Ruwi. Tel: 799899. sheraton@omantel.net.om Beach Hotel: A midrange hotel. Walking distance from the beach and near the shopping district. Way 2818, Shatti Al-Qurm. Tel: 696601. beachhtl@omantel.net.om Marina Hotel: Opposite the fish market. Reasonable prices. Mutrah Corniche. Tel: 713100. Naseem Hotel: The city's cheapest hotel. Very central location. Mutrah Corniche. Tel: 712418.
Where to eat
While Omani cuisine may seem to consist of typical Arab fare, it has elements of Indian culinary culture. Spices such as cardamom, saffron and turmeric are frequently used. Meat is the cornerstone of all meals. Veal, lamb and even camel meat are served. The best aspect of being right by the sea is Oman's huge variety of fresh fish. Although the best food can be found in the hotel restaurants, make sure to try the local street fare. Don't forget that alcohol is only served in the major hotels. Bin Attiqu: One of the rare restaurants in town to serve authentic Omani fare. Al-Khuwair Street. Al-Boom: A good option for Indian food. Located near the fish market and boasting a great view. Mutrah Corniche. Sindebad: One of the best meat restaurants in the city. The curries and biryanis are delicious. Al-Nahda Hotel, Mutrah Corniche.
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* If you want to feel like you are starring in an adventure straight out of the 1001 nights, spend a day at the Al-Bustan Palace Hotel, the most luxurious in Muscat. Enjoy swimming in the sea and feasting on traditional Omani cuisine. * After sunset, make sure to have a cup of Omani coffee at one of the small coffeehouses in Mutrah. * Make sure to enjoy the view from the peak of Bandar Jissah. * Visit the Bayt Az Zubair Museum, one of the most important museums dedicated to Omani history and culture. * Visit the market set up in Riwa every Friday. * Be careful in the heat and the sun. Don't forget to wear a hat and put on high factor sunscreen. |
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