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| Adnan Kutman shares his knowledge of wine. |
Saturday, 8:30 am... We are on our way to Mürefte to meet Adnan Kutman, who has invited us to attend the Kutman grape harvest. Our trip coincides with the Grape Harvest Yacht Race cosponsored by Kutman.
Kutman Wines is a 100-year-old family business. Today, it is run by Adnan and Cahit Kutman, whose grandfather set up the company. Doluca Wines is a separate entity run by another branch of the family.
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| The Kutman Wine Museum |
Murefte, the cradle of the wine industry
Wine has been produced in Anatolia since 3000BC. A large number of amphorae have been uncovered at the archaeological excavations in Hoşköy near Mürefte. Since the early 17th century, Mürefte has been known for its high quality wine. Back then, the majority of the population was Greek, with only around 100 Turkish families. Following the earthquake of 1912 and the population exchange, Murefte's Greek population all but disappeared, leaving their wineries behind. 5 Turkish families took up the wine trade, but only one remains in business today: Kutman!Up until the 1960s, Murefte was inaccessible by road. Large cargo ships could not dock at its small wooden pier, so they would anchor off the shore and fishing boats would ferry the barrels of wine across. The empty barrels were then thrown overboard to wash up on the shore, where they were collected by factory workers. Today, Murefte has had a renaissance as a centre of the wine industry, thanks in no small part to the Kutman family.
The Kutman Wine Museum
The road from Sarkoy to Murefte is lined with olive groves and vineyards. Mürefte's microclimate provides the ideal conditions for growing certain grape varieties. Upon our arrival in Murefte, we are greeted by Canan Kutman and Eser Marmara in front of Turkey's first wine museum, set up by Adnan and Cahit Kutman. The museum is packed with sailing enthusiasts. Adnan Kutman takes us on a tour of the fascinating museum. Then, we enter the wine cellar below to taste some Kutman wines. Our favourites are the 2000 Nevbahar red, 2000 Sipahi Barrique Okuzgozu-Bogazkere and the 2000 Barrique Kalecik Karası. The Merlot and Gamay are also good. Adnan Kutman gives a running commentary on the wines. Outside, a truck arrives filled with Emir grapes ready to be crushed. As we leave the museum, we are each given a parting gift of extra virgin olive oil.
Next, we visit the cellar of what was the Kutman family home from 1900 to 1976. There are over 2 million bottles in the cellar. After touring the silent cellar, we enjoy a bottle of 1982 Özel Kav-a real treat.
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| Breakfast with the Kutmans... |
As a storm begins to pick up, we take shelter in the Kutman guesthouse, our home for the night. All our rooms have been prepared for us. We put on an extra layer of clothing and head out for a meal at Murefte's only fish restaurant, together with the sailors.
Dinner is accompanied by a bottle Sipahi Syrah followed by Gamay, our favourite Barrique Okuzgozu-Bogazkere, Kalecik Karası and Merlot. Around 20 yachts took part in the Murefte Grape Harvest Yacht Race sponsored by the Ataköy Marina Yacht Club and Kutman Wines. Many of the competitors have stayed on in Mürefte to enjoy the harvest. We all have a wonderful time at the restaurant.
Back at the guesthouse, we manage to fit in some more baklava! Then, it's time for bed.
''The Day After''
The next morning, we get up bright and early and head down to breakfast. To wake up, we have some coffee and "borek", followed by a hearty, wholesome breakfast of local bread, olive oil, tomatoes, special Ezine feta cheese, "kasar" cheese and tea. Nothing compares to the taste of fresh bread dipped in olive oil flavoured with crushed red pepper and fresh thyme from the garden. The Kutman guesthouse's garden is like a mini-vineyard. There are vines growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Semillon grapes. The Semillon grapes are larger than the Riesling grapes while the Franc grapes are smaller then the Sauvignon. After such a filling breakfast, we lie down on the grass for an early siesta.
Before we leave, we head back to the vineyards for a final picnic. By now, we are all the best of friends. Like me, Canan and Adnan Kutman and Eser Marmara are also sailing students of Cumhur Gokova. We decide to meet up in November at the yacht races. Some of the others decide to join us. I take the last picture on my roll of film and bid everyone a reluctant farewell.
My only regret is that I left Murefte without tasting a Gamay grape. Well, I have to save something for next year! See you in 2005!
| Helpful hints... |
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* For information on Kutman wines, winery and museum call: Tel (İst): +90 212-667 89 83. Tel (Murefte): +90 212-685 02 53-55. * Special brands produced under the Kutman brand: Primeur, Ozel Kav, Fevzi Kutman, Chateau Safran, Safran, Safran Barrique & Sipahi. |
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