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| Cihangir boasts one of the best views in town. |
If you avoid the crowds of Istiklal Caddesi and head down Sýraselviler Caddesi instead, you will find yourself in the elite, bohemian neighbourhood of Cihangir.
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| Many old buildings have been restored. |
Cihangir luxury
Compared with Eyup, Sultanahmet or Galata, Cihangir is a relatively new neighbourhood, having only been settled around the beginning of the 20th century. Cihangir is more than just a region in Istanbul, it is a status symbol. But you don't need to be an aristocrat to live here. Cihangir has a different kind of cachet: it is home to writers, journalists, academicians, foreigners and intellectuals. But Cihangir is no bohemian den of iniquity it is a real, down-to-earth neighbourhood. You can lower down a basket on a string to the bakkal, feed the cats and chat with your neighbours. Apartments in Cihangir do not come cheap. The main reason for this is the remarkable view which stretches from Seraglio Point and the Princes' Islands on one side to the Black Sea end of the Bosphorus on the other. Cihangir owes its view to the fact that it is on one of the highest hills of the city. As you climb its steep hills and endless staircases, the city spreads out beneath your feet. The view has inspired such great writers as Orhan Pamuk, a resident. Cihangir may just bring out the poet in you.
The mosque café!
When you enter Siraselviler Caddesi, on your right lies Changa, a fusion restaurant that has won international renown. Further along is Andon, a restaurant, wine bar and bar. Both are located in restored Beyoglu buildings. After you pass the German Hospital and Taksim First Aid Hospital, head left to Cukurcuma, home to many antique shops. Head right and you'll be in Cihangir. Continue straight on and you'll come to Savoy Patisserie, a popular place thanks to its excellent pastries and savouries. Plus, you can watch a stream of newlyweds coming to Zumrut next door to get their wedding photos taken. A few more steps bring you to Firuzaga Mosque. Incongruously, a café is located at its feet. This café is a favourite gathering place for locals who come here to chat over a glass of hot tea.
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| Cihangir boasts one of the best views in town. |
Transvestite neighbours
In the 30s, 40s and 50s, Cihangir was home to a mix of people. There were houses of ill repute as well as luxurious apartments and doctors and dentists clinics. The mini-neighbourhood of Purtelas within Cihangir is named after Purtelas Hasan Efendi. Thanks to the media, Purtelas Street is infamous for being home to many transvestites. Indeed, just beyond the borders of Cihangir lie the backstreets of Beyoglu. These can be insalubrious, especially in the small hours of the night. Meanwhile, the first mosque was built in Cihangir in 1559. Five fires later, the current Cihangir Mosque was built in 1889 by the Balyan family.
Nazli and the Arab
Even the homeless "residents" of Cihangir are bohemian. After all, they have chosen its streets as their abode. Two eccentric homeless women are well-known faces here. One of them is beyond human communication. The other is Nazli. She says that her home burned down and that she still fears fire. She'll ask you for a cigarette, but only if you light it for her. Sometimes, the locals buy her soup. In the winter, she warms herself on warm cars or goes for walks in Taksim. Her lover, known as Arab, also lives on the streets and collects garbage. Sadly, Nazli has not been seen in Cihangir for some time. Cihangir is a unique neighbourhood, thanks to its location, geography, residents and lifestyle. Once you move in, you'll find it hard to move out.
| Helpful hints... |
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* Doga Balik Restaurant is famous for its view, its fresh fish and aromatic greens. Address: Akarsu Cad. No: 46. Tel: 0212-293 91 44. * Savoy Patisserie his very popular, especially around breakfast. Try the millefeuille. Address: Siraselviler Cad. Aslan Yatagi Sok. No: 3. Tel: 0212-249 18 18. * Ozkonak Pudding Shop has excellent traditional Turkish milk puddings. Address: Akarsu Cad. No: 60. Tel: 0212- 249 13 07. * La Cave stocks Turkish wines from all over the country. There are 500 varieties of wine. Address: Siraselviler Cad. No: 207, Cihangir. Tel: 0212-243 24 05. |
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