|
| The famous Macka Palas |
Plant yourself at the intersection of ValikonaGi Caddesi, which comes up on the right from the Military Museum in Harbiye, and Rumeli Caddesi, which stretches behind you, with Tesvikiye Caddesi in front of you, and you should be standing right next to the Nisantasi (Marksman's Obelisk). Generally, this obelisk goes almost unnoticed as it melts into the pedestrian crowds and bumper-to-bumper traffic. Just adjacent to the upright block of stone is Diamond, the oldest jeweller's in the area. Next to that is Konak, which serves up piping hot breakfast pastries. in the display window are some irresistible candied fruits such as cherries and figs. The next shop over is Paul, one of those responsible for the irresistible aromas wafting over the avenue.
You will notice the 'Komandatura Tailors and Mending Workshop' on your left side. Across from the police station is Alaattin's shop, which was mentioned in Orhan Pamuk's novel, Kara Kitap (Black Book). it's really heartening to encounter a blast to the past still in business on such an avenue. You should keep your head up while strolling down this drag because some of the facades of these buildings are truly impressive. if you venture into one or two, you'll find that they are literally palaces, with frescoes plastered on entry walls, wide apartment halls and magnificent elevators. Just down the way is Saray, where you can have a supper of chicken soup and rice, with 'muhallebi' for dessert. From here you can either continue on your way or else save some of your appetite for the Armani Café. Directly across from the Tesvikiye Mosque is the Pamukbank Fotograf Galerisi, which currently features Ali Toy's calligraphy exhibit. From here, you will amble onto Atiye Sokak where you will find the famous Gonul Paksoy store.
|
Macka Palas
Just a bit further up the way is the Milli Reasurans Carsisi, which has brought in a vivacity to the avenue since it opened. The joint is jumping night and day with delightful cafés and restaurants, boutiques selling clothing and valuable trinkets, Kerem Gorsev's Jazz Bar, not to mention the M. R. Art Gallery, where work by Nurcan Giz is on display. Across the street in the building over the post office lives the famous writer of Turkish pop music lyrics, A. Gurel with anthropologist N. Saran residing next-door. We shall end this tour at the MaCka Palas, which is a living symbol of the avenue. Having re-opened after some major restoration, one can find shops with famous brands as well as the Armani Café below the Palas. Also, an exhibit of the work of A. Hamit, who lived here once upon a time is open until 16 December. Though it seems like much of the gleam has moved upscale to Etiler, we still consider Nisantasi/Tesvikiye to be the city's traditional shopping district. Shop 'til you drop, duck in for a fine meal, maybe an exhibit, then a cup of tea. Especially under the autumn leaves.
Where to go, where to dine
Beymen Brasserie: Abdi Ipekci Cad. No: 23/1 Nisantasi. Tel: 212-343 04 43-44. Cafein Abdi Ipekci Cad. No:17, Nisantasi. Tel: 0212-241 09 36- 240 80 73. Café Zanzibar: Milli Reasurans Carsisi, No. 60, Tesvikiye Tel: 0212-233 80 46. Kirinti: Abdi Ipekci Cad. No:32, Tesvikiye Tel: 0212-291 26 92. Mezzaluna: Abdi Ipekci Cad. No:38/1 Tesvikiye Tel: 0212-231 31 42. Saray Muhallebicisi: Tesvikiye Cad. No:105, Tesvikiye-Nisantasi. Tel: 0212-236 16 17
| Helpful hints... |
|
* Don't bother asking, 'Is it fresh' if you're buying anything at Bahar Pastanesi. * The kebap at Bursa Uludağ Kebapçisi has an official patent and is delicious. Don't pass on the grape juice. * If the heavy pedestrian traffic wears you out, the courtyard of the Tesvikiye Mosque is always relaxing and refreshing. |
|
|
