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| There are many opportunities to take photos in neighbourhoods like Fener and Balat. |
Visitors to Istanbul that want to "take in some history" make a beeline for the historic peninsula. However, we sought an alternative "road not taken" through the city. Our guide was architect and tour guide Adnan Ozerler.
Before Haghia Sophia
Ozerler took us to the spot where the city walls are the best preserved. Here, they date back to 412-430 AD, 100 years before Haghia Sophia. The walls were built using the ancient Greek defensive technique. There are 21.5km of Eastern Roman walls. The Golden Gate is the best-preserved gate. It first served as the treasury and then became a prison where diplomats were kept hostage in times of war.
From the Golden Gate to Mihrimah Sultan
Edirnekapi is on the 5th hill of Istanbul. The nearby Mihrimah Sultan mosque was built by Mimar Sinan on the ruins of he Greek Orthodox Church of St. George. Out of sympathy, Mihrimah Sultan also rebuilt the church, which still functions today. Construction began in 1565 and lasted 3 years. It is one of the finest examples of Mimar Sinan's single-domed mosques, in line with Selimiye. In Farsi, Mihrimah means "July moon that reflects the light of the sun' or "moon visage". The Sultan married his daughter Mihrimah to the 47 year old, physically handicapped Rustem Pasa. On his death, Mihrimah inherited a fortune. During the construction, the princess developed a strong, platonic attachment to Mimar Sinan, often coming to the site or inviting him to the palace. The mosque is an elegant, feminine structure with one minaret and 260 windows. Inside, it is decorated with frescoes.
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The last days of the Byzantines
If you squint, you can still see the majesty that was once the Tekfur Palace. It served as an imperial residence in the last 200 years of Byzantium. It is the last standing Byzantine civil structure. The facade is covered in geometric patterns in brick and marble. During the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror, it served as a glass workshop and was a celebrated pottery in the Tulip Period.
Snowdrop
The nearby Yavuz Selim Mosque has a stunning view of Fener, the Galata Tower and Maslak. It was built in 1512 for the notoriously bloodthirsty grandson of Mehmed whose name means "Selim the Grim". Selim left behind a huge empire for his son, Suleyman the Magnificent. Suleyman doubled the empire and built this mosque for his father. The turbe of the Sehzadeler features tiles with a snowdrop pattern. Yavuz Selim and the 19th century Sultan Abdulmecid are also buried here.
Two churches
Of the churches that were not converted into mosques after the conquest, most are basilicas named after saints, such as the Church of Saint Andreas and Fotini. It has services on Wednesdays. St. Mary of the Mongols or Kanli Mosque was built in the 13th century by Emperor Michael VIII Palaeologus for his daughter Maria. She was married to the Moghul leader Abagu Khan. On his death, she retreated to this convent. Mehmed the Conqueror issued a decree that allowed the local Greeks to keep the Church. A copy can be seen inside. It is the oldest functioning Greek Orthodox church in Istanbul. Inside, there are portative mosaics. The only Byzantine oil painting is also to be found here. After such a long tour, head to the humble Komur restaurant that serves affordable but tasty Ottoman fare. Address: Kucukmustafa Pasa Mustantik Sok. No: 33, Fatih. Tel: 0212-631 01 92.
