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| The Kabasakal Madrasa is thought to have been built in the 18th century. |
Most visitors to Istanbul dream of staying in a 5-star hotel, eating in its world-class restaurants and visiting its most famous museums. However, we have prepared an alternative guide for those who wish to discover another face of the city.
In the shadow of Haghia Sophia
The ideal base for your journey through the backstreets of Istanbul is the Aya Sofya Pensions, an atmospheric hotel set in a row of 19th-century Ottoman houses on a cobblestone pedestrian street in the shadow of Haghia Sophia... Aya Sofya Pensions, Sogukcesme Sokagı, Sultanahmet. Tel: +90 212-524 01 26.www.ayasofyapensions.com Keeping Haghia Sophia on your right, head up the street and pass by Yeşil Ev, another hotel set in a converted 19th-century mansion and run by the same institution. Next door, the Kabasakal Madrasa, a former Islamic theological school, is home to the Istanbul Handcrafts Centre. Thought to date from the 18th-century, the madrasa's charming courtyard is surrounded by small workshops, each of which is dedicated to a different traditional Turkish handcraft such as ''hat'' (calligraphy), ''ebru'' (marbling), ''cam altı boyama'' (glass painting), ''tezhip'' (gilding), miniature painting and doll making. You can purchase examples of these arts or take lessons from masters of these crafts. Kabasakal Cad. No: 7, Sultanahmet.
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| The Aya Sofya Pensions. |
From secondhand books to navy beans
From here, head via Beyazıd to the Covered Bazaar. The Sahaflar Çarşısı (Market of the Secondhand Booksellers) is a paradise for bibliophiles. Turan Türkmenoğlu's shop stocks everything from handwritten Korans to Armenian, Hebrew, and Greek books that mostly date from the 18th and early 19th century. Elif kitabevi, Sahaflar Çarşısı, No: 4, Beyazıd. Tel: 0212-522 20 96.If you are ready for a bite to eat, head towards the region of Süleymaniye, which is named after the Süleymaniye Mosque, built by Mimar Sinan for Suleiman the Magnificent. The mosque complex includes a market, which is home to Kurucu Ali Baba, a humble restaurant that serves 'kuru fasülye' (navy beans), Turkey's unofficial national dish. The restaurant was established in 1939 by the eponymous Ali Baba and has remained in the family for four generations. The navy beans come from Erzincan and are cooked with red peppers. A delicious portion of beans and rice costs only 6 YTL. Kurucu Ali Baba, Kanaat Lokantası: Prof. Sıddık Sami Onar Cad. No: 1/3, Suleymaniye.
The Asian shore
Few visitors to Istanbul venture to the Asian shore, but those that do are awarded with a glimpse of some rare treasures. The Ozbekler Tekkesi, a dervish monastery, is located on a steep hill in the neighbourhood of Uskudar. The monastery belongs to an Uzbek Nakshibendi Sufi order. Today, the tekke is in the hands of Ethem Ozbek, the grandson of the last Sheykh of the order. The tekke was established by Hezarfen Seyh İbrahim Efendi, the man responsible for bringing the art of calligraphy to Turkey from Uzbekistan. In the past, Uzbeks on their way to the Haj would first come to Istanbul to pay their respects to the Caliph?that is, the Sultan?who would give them symbolic permission to set out on their pilgrimage. Sultan Mustafa III presented the tekke in Sultantepe to the Nakshi Sheykh in recognition of this service. During the War of Independence, the tekke served as a base for the Nationalist Forces and was a meeting place for music lovers in the early days of the Republic, training calligraphy teachers for the Academy of Fine Arts. The tekke has recently been restored by Ahmet Ertegun, a member of the family. One can only enter with special permission, but it is still worth visiting.Our final stop is the Baylan Patisserie in the Kadıkoy Market. The patisserie was founded in 1923 by Philip Lenas, who opened the original branch in Beyoglu. Baylan remains a family-run business to this day. Sit in their back garden and enjoy some apple or pear pie or their famous Cup Griye. Baylan, Muvakkithane Caddesi No: 19 Kad?köy. Tel: 0216-346 63 50. www.baylanpastanesi.com
