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| Feet of the new bridge. |
In the early 1990s, a huge fire engulfed the Galata Bridge, leaving it a hollow shell. Many years have passed since then and much water has flowed under the bridge, but it remains an important symbol of the city.
Bohemian splendour beneath the bridge
Before it was destroyed in the fire, the bridge was famous for the beer halls and cheap fish restaurants below it. Almost every poem, novel or story written in the Republican Period contains a reference to the bridge. Most people of a certain age have fond memories of drinking watered down beer under the bridge and talking about music, art and politics. One could say that the bridge, which was constructed in 1912, serves as a symbol of both the beginning and the end of an era: its construction coincides with the first Ottoman efforts at westernisation and its demise with Turkey's adoption of liberalism.The old Galata Bridge, whose life spanned some 80 years, still stands, unused, with one foot in Sütlüce and the other in Balat. Today, its mid section is left permanently raised to allow boats through. Recently, the old bridge has been given a new purpose, hosting a variety of events including an international theatre festival and the ADesign Fair.
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| The new Galata Bridge. |
A bridge to the EU
In the Ottoman era, the bridge connected the historical peninsula with Galata and Beyoğlu, then known as Pera, meaning ''the opposite shore''. Back then, the bridge connected the command centre of the Ottoman Empire on one shore with the world of the wealthy western bankers of Pera on the other. Indeed, this could be seen as a precursor of Turkey's position with the EU today.
The four feet of the bridge
With one foot in Eminönü and the other in Karakoy, the new Galata Bridge has six main staircases: two at its feet and two in the centre. Throughout the day, the bridge is lined with fishermen whose blue pails are filled with a huge variety of fish of all shapes and sizes. In the past, Eminönü was a much more lively place where you could spend an entire day snacking on grilled fish sandwiches and buying everything from pickles and soap to newspapers and Band-Aids. Although Eminönü has become gradually sterilised, the view from the restaurants, bars, cafes and fish sandwich shops under the new bridge remains relatively unchanged, taking in rushing ferries, bustling crowds, cawing seagulls, Topkapı Palace and the New Mosque. The bridge offers three other views. If you sit at the other side of the same foot of the bridge, your view features small ferry piers, the magnificent Rüstempaşa Mosque and the never-ending crowds of Eminönü. If you walk down to the Karaköy foot of the bridge and take a seat somewhere, you can enjoy a view of the green banks of the region known as Perşembe Pazarı, the lights of the fish market, fishermen selling their wares and a small motorboat dock. The other foot overlooks the Karaköy pier, ferries, ships from around the world and the requisite seagulls. If you are at the Golden Horn exit side, you can see the historic peninsula and the Asian shore. No other corner of Istanbul is as distinctive, complex or reflects the city so well. When we went, the area below the bridge seemed mainly filled with tourists. Clearly the 2.5 YTL fish sandwich and salad menus are a major attraction. A number of elegant restaurants and bars have also opened, but the economic situation of the daytime population is better suited to nargile cafes and cheap fish sandwich vendors.While you have a meal or smoke a nargile at one of the venues under the bridge, the fishing lines of the fishermen above dangle down in front of you, periodically bringing up a wriggling fish, or whatever else the fishermen manage to dredge up from the bottom of the Golden Horn that day.
The best time to visit the bridge is at sunset. Although the area is a hive of activity during the day, it is nevertheless one of the quietest and most deserted places in the city at night. Enjoy a nargile, a fish sandwich and maybe a glass of rakı while taking in the unique joys of Istanbul.
| Helpful hints... |
| * There are many places on the Galata Bridge where you can have a glass of beer and a fish sandwich, or smoke a nargile. The view is stunning, taking in the historic peninsula as well Karaköy, its ferries and its fishermen. Some addresses: Altınbalık: Tel: 0212-251 62 54. New Galata Mavi Restaurant: 0212-292 62 15. Yıldızlar Restaurant: 0212-528 92 48. Zeno Café: 0212-292 80 62. |
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