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| Giants battling the gods. |
The 'Istanbul Through the Ages' exhibition at the Istanbul Archaeological Museum is a pageant of human civilisation from prehistoric times to today.
A warm welcome from Bes
The Istanbul Archaeological Museum is located on a small, cobblestone street behind the Topkapı Palace. It is the only purpose-built museum in Istanbul and was established by Osman Hamdi Bey. The museum has over one million works from all over Anatolia, the most famous of which is the Alexander Sarcophagus. Before entering the museum, take a moment to enjoy the peace and beauty of its garden littered with ancient artefacts. Inside, you are greeted by a statue of Bes, an Egyptian god that was known for fighting off evil spirits. Head past the Alexander Sarcophagus and the Sarcophagus of the Mourners to your left, and past the Trojan Horse in front of you. A few steps lead to the mezzanine, which is home to the Istanbul Through the Ages exhibition.
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| A corner in the museum's garden. |
Istanbul 5000 years ago
The story of Istanbul begins with prehistoric artefacts found in the Yarım Burgaz Cave on the European shore. This is the first human settlement not only in Istanbul but in the entire Near East. The cave remained in use until the Byzantine era. The exhibition is in 3 sections: prehistoric Istanbul, ancient Istanbul and Kadıköy, and Byzantine Istanbul.In 660-658 BC, soon after the founding of Khalkedon (Kadıköy), Greek migrants from Megara established Byzantion on the historic peninsula on the current site of the Topkapı Palace. The colony grew little over the next few centuries. Beginning in the 4th century BC, necropolises sprang up in the surrounding areas, and many tombstones from these necropolises are on display in the museum, as are frescoes from churches and buildings that no longer remain standing.
Power struggles
Due to its strategic location, Istanbul was occupied many times before it became a part of the Roman Empire. One of the most brutal occupiers was Septimius Severus. After two years of being under siege, the city finally surrendered to him in 196 AD. As a punishment, all its walls were pulled down and its right to call itself a city removed, reducing it to the status of village. It was bound to Perinthos (now Marmara Ereğlisi). According to an old story, upon the request of his son, he rebuilt the city and restored its rights.The fate of the city changed with the division of the Roman Empire. On May 11, 330 AD, Constantine declared it the capital of the Byzantine Empire-that is, until 1453, when it was conquered by Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. The current site of Topkapı Palace once housed an acropolis as well as temples to Poseidon, Aphrodite, Dionysus and Zeus; what is today known as Sultanahmet Square once housed the Great Palace and the Senate. Every emperor tried to leave his stamp on the city. Theodosius I erected a silver statue of himself riding a bronze horse to the west of the area. Justinian later melted this down, used the proceeds to fund the building of waterways, and replaced it with a statue of himself. This statue stood until the 16th century, when it was also melted down, this time to make cannonballs.
Another important work on display is the recovered snake's head from the Serpentine Column in the Hippodrome. The city grew so large under the Byzantine emperors that it spread beyond the city walls and the necropolises were moved to the east of the city.
The final word
Among the many objects on display in the museum, including depictions of mythical gods and statues of great kings, the ancient tombstones and items removed from humble graves are the most touching. The so-called Alexander Sarcophagus is known not to have belonged to him at all; indeed, no one knows where the great leader was buried. In a world where no one is afforded the final word, human history seems like a chronicle of childish but bloody power struggles. The tombstones that mark the final outcome of the game of life are expressions of love for those near and dear to us.| Helpful hints... |
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* Epigrams by the 6th-century poet Paul the Silentiary, a member of the court of Justinian, have been translated from the French into Turkish by Samih Rifat. The book, ''Altın Yağmur'' (Gold Rain) is published by Adam Yayınları and provides unique insights into the period. * Istanbul Archeological Museum: Open daily except Monday from 09.00-17.00. Tel: 0212-520 77 40. |
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