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| A Gaudi style frog at Parc Güell |
20 years after my first failed attempt to travel to Barcelona, I finally achieved my dream of visiting this noble Catalan city. No doubt, this visit will not be my last.
The undying spirit of Barcelona
Before travelling, I always read up about my destination and make a daily sightseeing schedule. Before going to Barcelona, I studied the life of Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926), a leading figure in modern architecture. Picasso, Miro and Dali also lived here, but Dali left the most indelible impression. Gaudi was born in Reus in 1852 and became an architect in 1878. His surreal, organic style made his the foremost name in Spanish Art Nouveau. I was immediately struck by La Sagrada Familia Cathedral, which Gaudi was unable to complete. Its fingers seemed to stretch towards the sky, trying to save itself from drowning in the towering urban landscape of the city.
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| Casa Mila apartment. |
Towards the Mediterranean
Leaving the hotel, I headed down the Passeig de Gracia towards the Med. The first Gaudi building I saw was the La Pedrera (Casa Milo) apartment. Make sure to go inside to see the balconies and chimneys. Further down stands the Casa Enric Batllo. Its balconies bear a disconcerting resemblance to skulls while its roof is ironically filled with lively, vibrant colour. Both of these buildings eschew straight lines, reflecting Gaudi's love of organic shapes. Down the street, I discovered a tiny door that opened onto a huge marketplace. La Boqueria is a living museum to traditional culture. I visited the Fundacio de Tapies, Casa Amatler and Casa Lleo Morera before returning to my hotel. I may have chosen to have an early night, but it is clear that Barcelona never sleeps.
God's architect
I split the next day between La Sagrada Familia and the Parc Güell, Europe's first residential park. If you only have time to visit one sight in Barcelona, go to La Sagrada Familia. The Gothic spires of the cathedral remain unfinished to this day. This is the most extreme and most awesome example of Gaudi's aesthetic. No wonder he was known as God's architect by his peers. Gaudi's hand in the construction ended with his tragic death in 1926 in a tram crash. The stunning Parc Güell is a World Heritage site. Even Dali, whom we consider the king of the surrealists, called Gaudi the 'father of surrealism'. After my second day in the city, I felt like a native and was ready to hit the nightlife. I had a late seafood meal, knowing that I could have a restful siesta the next day. Divide your own trip to Barcelona in two: first discover Gaudi, then the living city.
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| The balconies of Casa Batillo look like skulls. |
Barcelona Guide
Climate
Typically Mediterranean. Hot summers and cool winters. Best in May and October.
Visas
For information, call 0212-270 74 10 (Istanbul), 0312-440 21 69 (Ankara).
How to get there
THY flies direct at 09.40 on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. Iberia flies daily at 17.10. Both cost 416 USD + airport tax.
Where to stay
Claris: Best in the city. 80 rooms in 60 styles, Japanese garden, roof pool, famous ?East 47? Restaurant. Tel: +90 34 93 487-6262 www.derbyhotels.es Colón: City centre. Popular with Miro. 180 Euro per room. Tel: +90 34 93 301-1404 www.hotelcolon.es Condes de Barcelona: Stunning lobby and Thalassa restaurant. +90 34 93 467 4780. www.condesdebarcelona.com Majestic: Chic address. Home to the legendary Drolma restaurant. Tel: +90 34 93 488 1717.www. hotelmajestic.es Rey Juan Carlos I-Conrad International: Luxury hotel and shopping centre Tel: +90 34 93 364 4040. www.hrjuancarlos.com 180 Euro per room.
Where to eat
Agut: Agut has lost none of its popularity since it opened in 1924. Serves Catalan fare. Try the sweet and sour duck. Address: Gignàs 16. Botafumeiro: Botafumeiro serves all sorts of seafood from mussels to caviar. Try the pulpo a feira (potatoes with calamari) and pan con tomate (toast with olive oil and tomatoes). Address: Gran de Gràcia 81. Can Gaig: One of the city?s best restaurants. The menu includes everything from old Catalan recipes to traditional home-style food. Try the fried partridge with ham. Address: Passeig de Maragall 402. Can Majò: Barcelona?s best fish restaurant. You can have anything from fish that is stewed in its own juices (Suquet) to lobster paella. They are all wonderful. Address: Almirall Aixada 23. Comerc 24: Chef Carles Abellan reinvents Catalan fare at this restaurant. Comerc 24 is famous for its dessert made with chocolate, olive oil and bread. Address: Carrer Comerc 24. La Cupula: Chef Carles Gaig serves contemporary Catalan and Mediterranean fare. The restaurant is filled with antique furniture. Try the shrimp with peas and brown rice with cheese and calamari in a cream sauce. Address: Sicilia 255.
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* There are lots of pickpockets, especially on La Rambla. Be careful walking around. * The metro is an easy way to get around. * Make sure to wander around the Barri Gotic. * Take the tram up to Tibidabo, the highest point in the city, and enjoy the view. * Make sure to visit La Sagrada Familia and the Museu Maritim (Maritime Museum). * Stroll along La Rambla. * Many museums and galleries are closed all day Monday and after 14:00 on Sundays. * Lunch is served from 14:00-16:00. Many businesses are closed during these hours. * Posters of works by Miro and Picasso make excellent souvenirs or presents. You can also buy gifts from BARCA (Barcelona Football Club) for football fans. |
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